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漢服的“平中交右、寬褖合纓”,你都瞭解嗎?

由 CGTN 發表于 攝影2021-05-30
簡介“平”指的是漢服的剪裁

向右是什麼意思

漢服的“平中交右、寬褖合纓”,你都瞭解嗎?

近年來,漢服受到越來越多中國年輕人的青睞。

據統計,2019年僅淘寶平臺的漢服交易額就超過了20億元。今年上半年,已有超過2000萬人在天貓上購買漢服。

幾天前,“漢服到底能有多仙氣”還衝上了微博熱搜,收穫了5。5億的閱讀量。

這都表明,漢服已經不再小眾,“漢服熱”仍在升溫。

可是,你真的瞭解漢服嗎?

China is a country of multiple ethnicities。 The most dominant is a group called the Han, who make up more than 90 percent of the mainland‘s population。 Traditionally, the Han people had their own distinctive way of life, including the way they dressed。 The type of clothing they wear is known as Hanfu, but some also call it Han clothing。

The traditional clothing system of Han people is today divided into two phases: ancient and modern。 Ancient Hanfu dates back to the time of Yellow Emperor, which is about 4,000 years ago。 It had been developing until about 300 or 400 years ago, when the Qing Dynasty’s policy on hair and dress code intervened。 Later on, it was around the beginning of the 20th century when the country started moving more towards Western-style clothing。

漢服的全稱是漢民族傳統服飾體系,最早可追溯至5000多年前。之後,漢服制度不斷髮展至清初,在“剃髮易服”政策下消亡。

現代漢服繼承了古代漢服的基本理念,並在其中增添了現代的元素,

其主流典型特徵可以用這八個字概括——

“平中交右、寬褖合纓”。

漢服的“平中交右、寬褖合纓”,你都瞭解嗎?

“平”指的是漢服的剪裁

。漢服運用平面對摺剪裁的方式製作而成,前後衣身裁片肩線相連呈平面結構,與西方的服飾截然不同。漢服的款式很多,但都堅守“平裁對摺”這一理念。

“中”指的是漢服中縫對稱,左右均分。

這體現了守正執中的文化形態。又因前後中縫與地面垂直,被賦予“剛正、公平、正直”的含義。

“交”指衣裳的交疊。

穿漢服時需透過“相交”完成閉合。衣裳疊穿、衣身前後閉合,也被賦予天地交泰、陰陽相合的含義。

“右”指交疊

——不論上衣下褲,都是向右側交疊閉合固定。衣襟向右掩視為陽,表示在世的人;衣襟向左掩視為陰,表示故去的人。

Ping means flat。 One of the key elements of Hanfu is that it doesn‘t have shoulder lines, meaning the outfit uses just one plain cut of fabric。

Zhong means centralized。 The cutting and tailoring abide by the rule of symmetrical tailoring and stitching。

Jiao means the elements of Hanfu are designed to cross and overlap, upholding a belief in traditional Chinese culture: the balance of Yin and Yang。

The word “You” is stressed, meaning everything must move to the right, including how the front is closed。

“寬”指“

松袼

寬擺”。

漢服的用料遠大於覆蓋人體的需要。寬大的袖子和裙襬時刻提醒人們要注意禮節和儀態。

“褖”(tuàn)指的是衣服的邊緣,“禮衣必褖”。

古人認為衣領若不加緣邊則為粗陋之服,稱之為“襤”,如果還加以縫補,則稱“褸”,“衣衫襤褸”形容生活困苦。

“合”即“腹手合袖”,約束袖長和儀態。

袖長遮住手外能反折至肘部,雙手合攏時袖子褶皺堆積,袖口左右相合,蘊含“和合共生”的含義。

“纓”則泛指用於固定的帶狀部件或穗狀飾物。

漢服採用衣帶或佩綬等部件收束和裝飾,若用紐扣則隱藏於不起眼處,形成隱扣繫帶。

The fifth one is Kuan, meaning width。 Hanfu outfits have loose-fitting upper sleeves and bottom。 It reminds the wearer to walk with grace and to observe etiquettes。

Tuan and He refer to the edges and sleeves。 The edges have to be neat and clean with no dangling threads, while the sleeves should come together and meet。

Last, but not least is the embellishment。 Instead of buttons, a band is used to hold up all the pieces。

And that’s how a modern Hanfu outfit comes together。

“中國有禮儀之大,故稱夏;有服章之美,謂之華。”

漢服彰顯著中華文明的智慧和哲學審美,飄逸流暢,又嚴謹精巧。

在中國綜合實力不斷提升的當下,漢服也成為了當代青年彰顯文化自信最鮮明的表達方式之一。